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About 5,000 years ago, people in West Asia figured out that when soured and curdled milk was concentrated by pressing and draining out the whey, the granules left over, sprinkled with salt, were delicious. If the curdling occurred inside the lining of a slain animal’s stomach (which contains rennet, a protein-digesting enzyme), they found, the resulting cheese came together much more cohesively. By the 8th century BCE, this process had reached Europe, where cooler temperatures prevailed, and the Europeans were able to add yet another dimension to cheese-making: the ageing of cheese. Given the rich diversities of climate and starter culture, Europe soon became a thriving hub of new cheese varieties, with the ageing adding new layers of flavours and textures. As distinct processes emerged in different regions, unique cheeses such as the brie, comté, cheshire, cheddar and stilton (all named for their places of origin in France and England) emerged. But they all start with the same base ingredients: milk, cheese cultures, rennet, salt and time. Such cheeses are also a conduit for healthy microorganisms and enzymes. But where there is life, there is a life cycle. Once such a cheese has ripened, it has to be used within a certain period. James Kraft, a cheese maker in Chicago, wondered how to extend the shelf life of cheese. In 1916, he patented a process by which he sterilised cheese by constantly stirring it for about 15 minutes while heated to about 80 degrees Celsius. This killed the bacteria in the cheese and allowed it to be canned. Canned cheese, incidentally, was used widely by the US Army to feed its soldiers during World War 1. It also marked the birth of processed cheese. Kraft soon realised that heating the cheese caused the proteins and fats to separate. The protein seized up into a glob and the fats pooled together in a greasy puddle. The addition of emulsifiers such as sodium citrate (INS 331) and potassium polyphosphate (INS 452 (ii)) pulled together these separate components and gave the cheese a smooth, rubbery texture. This became the standard for industrially made cheeses. These cheeses were crafted into thin, rectangular slices that fit perfectly between sandwich bread and could be melted into a gooey state. This kind of cheese is now commonly called American cheese or processed cheese. The traditional cheeses retain their original names: feta, cheddar, gouda, mozzarella, etc. Here, the process and the amount of milk fats and moisture are regulated by food safety and standards organisations. Such cheeses typically have a much smaller ingredients list: milk, bacterial cultures, rennet and salt. The plant-based annatto colouring is often listed in cheeses with an orange tinge. Paneer, the popular Indian cheese, has one of the simplest ingredients lists: Milk and acidifying agent (lemon juice or vinegar). Using the combination of vacuum packing and heat treatment, the shelf life of packed paneer can extend to roughly 90 days when refrigerated, with no added preservatives. Paneers works well in Indian sauces and curries, simmered, roasted or fried. Because of the use of acids and the lack of rennet, paneer is a non-melting cheese.

By the 8th century BCE, this process had reached Europe, where cooler temperatures prevailed, and the Europeans were able to add yet another dimension to cheese-making: the ageing of cheese. Given the rich diversities of climate and starter culture, Europe soon became a thriving hub of new cheese varieties, with the ageing adding new layers of flavours and textures.

As distinct processes emerged in different regions, unique cheeses such as the brie, comté, cheshire, cheddar and stilton (all named for their places of origin in France and England) emerged. But they all start with the same base ingredients: milk, cheese cultures, rennet, salt and time.

Such cheeses are also a conduit for healthy microorganisms and enzymes. But where there is life, there is a life cycle. Once such a cheese has ripened, it has to be used within a certain period.

James Kraft, a cheese maker in Chicago, wondered how to extend the shelf life of cheese. In 1916, he patented a process by which he sterilised cheese by constantly stirring it for about 15 minutes while heated to about 80 degrees Celsius. This killed the bacteria in the cheese and allowed it to be canned. Canned cheese, incidentally, was used widely by the US Army to feed its soldiers during World War 1.

It also marked the birth of processed cheese. Kraft soon realised that heating the cheese caused the proteins and fats to separate. The protein seized up into a glob and the fats pooled together in a greasy puddle. The addition of emulsifiers such as sodium citrate (INS 331) and potassium polyphosphate (INS 452 (ii)) pulled together these separate components and gave the cheese a smooth, rubbery texture. This became the standard for industrially made cheeses.

These cheeses were crafted into thin, rectangular slices that fit perfectly between sandwich bread and could be melted into a gooey state. This kind of cheese is now commonly called American cheese or processed cheese.

The traditional cheeses retain their original names: feta, cheddar, gouda, mozzarella, etc. Here, the process and the amount of milk fats and moisture are regulated by food safety and standards organisations. Such cheeses typically have a much smaller ingredients list: milk, bacterial cultures, rennet and salt. The plant-based annatto colouring is often listed in cheeses with an orange tinge.

Paneer, the popular Indian cheese, has one of the simplest ingredients lists: Milk and acidifying agent (lemon juice or vinegar). Using the combination of vacuum packing and heat treatment, the shelf life of packed paneer can extend to roughly 90 days when refrigerated, with no added preservatives. Paneers works well in Indian sauces and curries, simmered, roasted or fried. Because of the use of acids and the lack of rennet, paneer is a non-melting cheese.

Among the melting cheeses, mozzarella is perhaps the most popular, for becoming stretchy and stringy when heated. This is quite deliberate. During manufacture, the cheese curds are placed in hot water, which causes the proteins to uncoil. The cheese is then kneaded and stretched, which causes the proteins to align to form long fibres. Another popular cheese, with less stringiness but a much sharper taste, is cheddar. The complex, sharp taste of cheddar comes from the ageing process. Mozzarella, which is a fresh cheese, retains a bland, milk-like taste. Which is why companies often blend the two to get the best of both worlds. Now, cheese spreads and cheese sauces, which are made by blending processed cheese with water and flavourings, are likely to have additives including emulsifiers and preservatives, necessitated by the high moisture content. Take time to look at these cheese labels. Or try some of the traditional cheese varieties instead. They have cleaner ingredients lists, a rich cultural history and, most importantly, complex and delicious flavours. (To reach Swetha Sivakumar with questions or feedback, email upgrademyfood@gmail.com) Enjoy unlimited digital access with HT Premium Subscribe Now to continue reading Start 15 Days Free Trial Already Subscribed? Sign In SHARE THIS ARTICLE ON

Another popular cheese, with less stringiness but a much sharper taste, is cheddar. The complex, sharp taste of cheddar comes from the ageing process. Mozzarella, which is a fresh cheese, retains a bland, milk-like taste. Which is why companies often blend the two to get the best of both worlds.

Now, cheese spreads and cheese sauces, which are made by blending processed cheese with water and flavourings, are likely to have additives including emulsifiers and preservatives, necessitated by the high moisture content. Take time to look at these cheese labels. Or try some of the traditional cheese varieties instead. They have cleaner ingredients lists, a rich cultural history and, most importantly, complex and delicious flavours.

(To reach Swetha Sivakumar with questions or feedback, email upgrademyfood@gmail.com)

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